2004 Brundlmayer Lagenloiser Gruner Veltliner 'Kamptaler Terrasen' (Kamptal)

Consumption Date: 3/16/2012

Notes: Dramatic aroma of wet hay and toffee with a wet chalk note and hints of ripe fruits (lemon/apple(?)).  Fine round fruity flavors (gooseberry (presumably) and lemon) with a bright acid, mineral note (chalk dust) leading into an almond note.  More fruit, chalk, and nuttiness on the long finish.

This wine has been another interesting variation in what Austrian Gruner has to offer.  The aroma is frankly astonishing as it is unique in my experience of wine.  The wine itself is more reminiscent of other wines than the Gruners I have recently consumed.  The fruity character (presumably gooseberry, although I don’t have a personal reference for this fruit) reminds me of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, while the minerality suggests Muscadet (or even Champagne), while the nuttiness is reminiscent of Savagnin (or even sherry).  Nevertheless, this is clearly a well crafted wine and is further piquing my interest in the wines of Austria.  A Terry Theise selection.  Very good value.

2004 Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd (Loibner Muhlpoint)

Source: Astor

Consumption Date: 3/10/2012

Notes: Fine nutty aroma with grassy and chalk notes and a hint of lemon fruit.  Moderate body with full, round fruitiness (lemon and perhaps pineapple) with a solid core of chalky minerality.  Finishes strong (and moderately long) with a fine spicy note and a mild hint of grass and herbs.

This is another fine Gruner that has really helped to solidify my understanding of this varietal (and to cement it in my mind as a varietal to explore in additional depth).  This is another clearly well made wine with enjoyable flavor components, impeccable balance, and enough complexity to be really enjoyable.  Considering that it is a Smaragd (grapes from the highest ripeness level), it doesn’t seem to have any apparent sweetness (which is just fine).  Overall a very enjoyable wine.  A Terry Theise selection.  Very good to excellent value.

1999 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage 'Les Jalets'

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 3/4/2012

Notes: Deeply earthy aroma with hints of animal feces (really).  Rich, almost elegant, full body with loads of fruit (mostly black currant and cherry), a broad herbaceous/vegetal character, with a fine, succulent mineral core.  Finishes long with aromatic herbs and spice, a fine fruity richness, and a hint of tar.  Fine to moderate tannin.

As my first Northern Rhone red and practically my first Syrah, this wine has proven to be most interesting.  While the aroma is somewhat off-putting (honestly my first thought was barnyard with dog shit (although it has mellowed somewhat)), the wine itself is surprisingly rich, fruity, and complex.  I am finding certain parallels with Burgundy (aroma, moderate tannin, cherry fruit), but with unique minerality and spiciness and a general flavor profile that I associate with warmer climate wines.  Of course, as my first Northern Rhone/Syrah, I am curious about the effects of vintage, producer, and, especially, age on this wine.  It has some characteristics that I associate with (or assume are related to) bottle age, but I have no idea how these are enhancing or masking the typical Northern Rhone Syrah flavors.  I suspect this wine would have been even better a few years younger.  I will certainly be looking forward to trying more Rhone Syrah’s this month.  I’m a bit worried this could be another region that will rank amongst my favorites (resulting in the desire for more purchasing).  Very good to excellent value.

2004 Nigl Gruner Veltliner 'Alte Reben' (Kremstal)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 3/3/2012

Notes: Mild grassy, herbaceous aroma with hints of fruit (pear/apple/lemon).  Dense body with tons of fruit (white grape, apple, and lemon) and a mild mineral background.  Fine balance between a distinct residual sweetness and minerally acidity.  Moderate finish of fruit and mineral.

This wine has been something of a surprise (I guess they all are to some extent (at least judging by my notes)).  It is very fine and elegant with loads of fruit (somewhat reminiscent of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc) and enough minerality to keep it interesting. The distinct sweetness (although much less than a German Auslese, for example) was unexpected, and although it is not as spicy/herbaceous as I would have expected for Gruner, it is quite enjoyable.  Clearly a very well made wine with a distinctive character.  A Terry Theise selection.  Good value.