2000 Zind Humbrecht Riesling 'Brand' (Turkheim, Alsace)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 5/28/2012

Notes: Deep golden color.  Mild aroma of flowers and minerals with a ripe apple note.  Rich, full luscious body with lots of ripe fruit (more apple and white grape), flowers, and a complex, almost spicy minerality continuing through the moderate finish.

This wine is reminiscent of German Auslese Riesling, except that it is seemingly not quite as sweet, nor is it as finely balanced with acidity, although it does have more mineral complexity and spiciness.  It does have some characteristics (the spiciness and a round ripeness to the fruit) that I am coming to associate with Alsatian wines.  I am somewhat curious to investigate the usual questions a relatively new wine experience suggests, i.e., what are the influences of vintage, producer, and terroir.  Although Alsatian Riesling is not likely to displace my preference for German Ausleses, it will be an interesting area to further explore, on occasion.  A Kermit Lynch selection.  Average value.

2000 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru

Source: Sterling Cellars

Consumption Date: 5/27/2012

Notes: Intense aroma of spice, ripe fruit, tar, and a hint of dry wood.  Medium bodied, with fine structure and intense flavors of spice and fruit with an edge of tar.  More fruit, spice, and dry wood on the long finish.  Mild tannin.

This is a very fine wine with a very fine structure and balance, but surprising intensity, yet retaining a lightness and ethereality that I have found to be common (and highly enjoyable) in 2000 Burgundies.  It does not necessarily match with my conception of what Burgundy wine should taste like, especially the intensity and the tar component and the lack of obvious earthiness in the flavors and, particularly, in the aroma.  Yet it is clearly Pinot, clearly Burgundy, and clearly a fine wine.  Yet another example of the seeming uniqueness in every Burgundy I taste (leading me to wonder if I will ever really get a handle on this region).  This wine ranks near the top of all wines I have had the pleasure of drinking.  Good value.

2002 Meo-Camuzet Corton Grand Cru 'Clos Rognet'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/26/2012

Notes: Intense aroma of peppery fruit and chocolate.  Elegant, finely structured body with more chocolate and ripe cherry fruit.  Moderate to long finish with more chocolate, cherry fruit, and spice.  Mild tannin.

This wine showed yet another side of what Pinot Noir can produce in Burgundy.  Intense and elegant, but somewhat simple (multi-dimensional, but without complexity).  Although rated as classic by Wine Spectator, this wine fell short of what I consider to be classic Burgundy.  This wine also left me wondering if it would have developed more complexity and, therefore, been more enjoyable with another 5 to 10 years of age on it.  Overall, an interesting variation of Burgundy, but not especially to my taste.  Disappointing value.

1990 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru 'Teurons'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/25/2012

Notes: Fine Burgundy aroma of damp earth and ripe cherry fruit.  Medium bodied with tons of spice and plenty of ripe dark cherry fruit.  Earth, spice, and mild fruit on the moderate finish.  Mild tannin.

This has been a successful experiment in the effect of vintage in Burgundy (by way of comparison to the same producer and appellation from 1983 that I drank yesterday).  The conclusion is that vintage is significant (although actual age differences also play a role).  This wine has more fruit, spice, and elegance than the 83, although it is less ethereal and with less aged/oxidized characteristics.  This wine is further proof of the greatness of the 1990 vintage.  Perhaps a bit past its peak, but still plenty vibrant and complex.  Very enjoyable.  Good value.

1983 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru 'Teurons'

Source: Suburban

Consumption Date: 5/25/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of spice and ripe cherry fruit.  Light to medium body with moderate spice and cherry fruit notes with a hint of chocolate.  Moderate finish of spice, fruit, and a hint of minerality. Mild tannins.

This wine made for an interesting comparison with the 1978 village Beaune I drank yesterday.  This wine certainly had more fruit and less of the aged, oxidized, mushroom character that the 78 had.  While this should have made this wine more enjoyable, I found it to be somewhat less complex than the 78 and mostly lacking the Burgundy/barnyard funk that I enjoy, although this was a bit more elegant.  Overall, a well-made wine and enjoyable.  Good value.

1978 Pierre Bouree Beaune

Source: Sterling Cellars

Consumption Date: 5/23/2012

Notes: Light garnet with a wide, pronounced brick orange rim.  Moderate aroma of barnyard, forest floor, and an unusual gamy mushroom note.  Full bodied with strong gamy mushroom flavors; a pleasing spicy, herbaceousness; and a hint of ripe cherries and damp hay.  Moderately long finish of spice and dry wood with a hint of cherry fruit.  Mild tannins.

Overall, this is pretty much what I expected, except that it has a lot more complexity than I would have expected for a village level wine.  Although the fruit has become secondary to the more aged characteristics of the wine (e.g., mushroom notes), it has retained enough fruit to be enjoyable.  Although somewhat oxidized as indicated by the color and the aroma, the flavor is not as dominated by oxidative qualities as I might have expected.  Selecting this wine primarily because of the vintage and the curiosity factor, I was not expecting too much from a lesser appellation and a lesser known negociant; I have, however, found this to be enjoyable and educational.  I don’t expect to become a connoisseur of highly aged wines (although if my rate of purchasing continues to exceed my consumption, I may become one inadvertently) nor do I plan to pursue many older vintages, as I prefer wines that have a better balance between the fruit and the secondary, aged flavors.  However,  I will occasionally enjoy the trip back through time that only an older vintage wine can provide.  Good value.

2005 Paul Pernot Beaune 'Clos de Dessus des Marconnets'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/6/2012

Notes: Mild aroma, mostly of spice, but with a hint of wood.  Big, bold, fruity flavor (mostly dark cherry) with a broad supporting spiciness.  More fruit, spices, and a note of dry wood on the moderate finish.  Mild to moderate tannin.

For a village level wine, this has been a bit of a pleasant surprise.  Although it lacks the “funk” and the complexity of a higher level Burgundy, it has lot of enjoyable Pinot character, especially the fruit and spice.  Another example of the magic of Burgundy at a very reasonable price (I’ve had Oregon Pinots at twice the price that deliver half the enjoyment of this wine).  This would be an excellent candidate for an (almost) everyday wine.  Excellent value.

2007 Hirsch Riesling 'Gaisberg' (Kamptal)

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/5/2012

Notes: Mild floral aroma with hints of minerals, ripe fruit (apple), and a faint “animal” aroma.  Light bodied with distinct floral and mineral notes as well as ripe fruit (white peach, apple, white grape) with a suggestion of sweetness.  Succulent acidity leads into a moderate finish of fruit, flowers, and minerals.

This wine has been a complete surprise and, frankly, I’m not quite sure what to make of it.  While it clearly has all of the flavor components I associate with Riesling, its lightness makes it seem almost insubstantial and the flavor components are mostly fleeting and hard to pin down.  As such, it stands in stark contrast to the Auslesen I am used to drinking, as it is not as full, sweet, and unctuous as those.   On the other hand, this is clearly a well made wine and despite its “lightness”, the flavors are intriguing and compelling.  Overall, the effect is ethereal and quite enjoyable.  A Terry Theise selection.  Average to good value.