Monday, December 31, 2012

1999 Paul Bara 'Comtesse Marie de France' Champagne Brut Grand Cru 'Bouzy'


Importer: Kermit Lynch

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 12/31/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of chalk, flowers, and yeast with a hint of fruit.  Creamy texture, with upfront chalk and floral notes evolving into a distinctive bready/yeastiness underpinned by a tart, lemon fruit acidity.  Also has a hint of sweetness and deeper fruitiness.  Finishes long with more yeast, chalk, and hints of fruit.

This is a really interesting champagne, in that there is a lot going on in each sip (with different characteristics assuming prominence at different times).  While it has all of the hallmarks of what I consider fine champagne, it is particularly noteworthy for the bready/yeasty component that I really enjoy.  Although not particularly fruity and definitely acidic, there is enough of a hint of sweetness and fruit to suggest that this is straddling the line between brut and the next sweeter category (extra dry?).  Although it is perhaps not perfectly balanced, it has enough complexity and variability to make for very enjoyable consumption.

Value: Good to very good.

Sunday, December 16, 2012

2000 Meo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 'Les Chaumes'

Importer: Kermit Lynch

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 12/16/2012

Notes: Intense aroma of earth, truffles, and spices with hints of dark fruit and dry wood.  Very silky texture with mild dark fruit (black cherry), loads of spice, and a restrained earthiness and mushroom/truffle umami character.  Finishes long with more spice and fruit and a slightly astringent dry wood note.  Moderate tannin.

This wine demonstrates yet another interesting variation on what can be done with Pinot Noir in Burgundy.  Besides the predominance of spice in the flavor and aroma, this wine is remarkable for its amazing silky texture.  It has an interesting and pleasant aroma, although not quite the ‘funk’ I expect from Burgundy.  Although it has some characteristics that I associate with the 2000 vintage (relatively light body and almost ethereal fruit), these are somewhat masked by what appears to be a predominance of new oak (presumably contributing the spiciness as well as the slight astringency (which would be a fault if it was any more prominent)).  Perhaps not as complex (or perhaps balanced) as I would prefer, but still a very enjoyable wine.

Value: Good

2002 Eugen Muller - Riesling Auslese (Forster Kirchenstuck)


Importer: Terry Theise

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 12/15/2012

Notes: Mild, yet rich aroma of honeyed fruit with a hint of wet chalk and a wisp of flowers.  Full bodied with incredible rich, honeyed fruit (white grape, meyer lemon, and, perhaps, peach) framed with a pleasing acidic tang and floral hints.  More honey and fruit with a mild minerality on the very long finish.

This is an excellent and intriguing example of German Riesling Auslese.  The overwhelming characteristic is rich, elegant honeyed fruit which I find unparalleled in any other Riesling I have had.  While not readily apparent, this wine offers enough acidity to keep it from being cloying.  The only criticism of this wine is that it is not as complex as other German Rieslings I have had, as the chalky/stony and floral characteristics that I associate with these wines are very subdued in this example.

Value: Very good to excellent