1999 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo 'Monprivato'

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 12/28/2013

Notes: Fantastic ethereal aroma of flowers, truffles (perhaps), and a hint of tar, along with other notes I can’t identify.  Full rich body with an fine depth of dark cherry fruit with more floral, truffle, and earth notes along with a faint hint of tar and an enticing acidity with subtle mineral notes.  Finishes long with more fruit, earth, truffles, and mineral acidity with a nice framing note of dry wood.  Moderate tannin.

This is my first Barolo in quite some time and it has been a great surprise and a tremendous pleasure.  A wine like this makes it easy to see how people can become obsessed with Barolo.  As soon as the cork was out of the bottle, the tremendous perfume and promise of this wine was apparent.  The first sips bore out this promise and it has continued with each sip.  This wine has a pleasing complexity with a unique, penetrating aroma and flavor that are nearly beyond description.  An interesting combination or richness, elegance, and weightiness.  Easily the most memorable and enjoyable wine I have had in some time.

Value: Excellent

2009 Lazio Bianco IGT 'Coenobium' (Monastero Suore Cistercensi)

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Suburban

Consumption Date: 12/4/2013

Notes: Deep golden yellow color.  Mild floral and citrus aromas (orange blossom?) with a hint of wet stone.   Full-bodied with mild citrus (more orange than lemon) and almond notes with some wet stone minerality.  Moderate finish with similar notes, perhaps with the almond/nutty note more prominent.

This is a pleasant, if somewhat unremarkable Italian white.  The color and full body were unexpected, but pleasurable, as was the orange citrus character (though mild).  Not enough acidity to make the flavors pop and the wine racy and exciting.  Should be a good accompaniment to simple pasta, but not interesting enough for further contemplation or exploration.

Value: Average

1998 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle Musigny

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 10/17/2013

Notes: Moderate aroma of spice and earth.  Full bodied with a rich, intense earthiness with suggestions of mushrooms and truffles along with a distinct spiciness and hints of dark cherry and raspberry fruit.  Finishes long with more spice and truffly earthiness.  Moderate plus tannins.

This is a pleasant re-introduction to the pleasures of red wine, and specifically Burgundy, after a long absence.  While it has not produced the Burgundian experience I had hoped for, this wine is not without interest.  While lacking in the “funk” department and holding little fruit, it is still rather intense considering its age.  This intensity, in the form of earth and spice, is not altogether unenjoyable, just different from what I expect of Burgundy and especially this appellation (even considering that it is a village level wine from a not especially renowned vintage).  However, the hint of truffles has proven to be a pleasant surprise.  Probably would have been more enjoyable at a younger age, presumably with more fruit for better balance.

Value: Average

2008 Cantina Valtidone Ortrugo (Colli Piacentini)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 8/17/2013

Notes: Mild nutty, grassy aroma with hints of white grape and apple.  Mild flavors of tart lemon/green apple with an enveloping nuttiness and a hint of minerality.  Moderate finish of musky fruit with a hint of bitterness and a tangy mineral note.

A simple Italian white with decent character for the appellation/price, but not much depth or complexity.  Still it should be a decent accompaniment to pasta in cream sauce.  Met, but did not exceed expectations.  Might have been better (brisker and fresher flavors), if drunk younger.

Value: Good

2000 Guy Larmandier 'Cramant Blanc de Blancs' Brut (Champagne)

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Rosenthal

Consumption Date: 7/1/2013

Notes: Mild aroma of flowers, yeasty bread, and wet chalk.  Light bodied, but with a rich, creamy mouthfeel and tart acidity highlighting flavors of lemon and a hint of green apple, a mild yeast bread note, and a hint of flowers and chalky minerality.  Moderate finish that combines the flavor notes into a suggestion of lemon meringue pie with a slight chalk/mineral edge.

This has been an interesting variation on vintage Champagne for me.  While the wine is definitely elegant and surprisingly rich, if not as complex as I might have expected, it does not have the depth or fullness of flavor that I would have expected.  It is rather more ethereal than powerful.  Nevertheless, it is enjoyable and I expect it to pair well with the lobster I will be having for dinner.

Value: Average

2003 Hartford Zinfandel 'High Wire Vineyard' (Russian River Valley)

Source: Sherry-Lehmann

Consumption Date: 6/13/2013

Notes: Intense aroma of leafy undergrowth with some jammy dark berries and distinct penetrating alcohol and tar notes.  Full-flavored with loads of dry leaves and wood, jammy raisin and dark berry fruit, and a hint of tar.  Finishes long with more dry wood, leaves, and cedar spice.  Lots of chewy, almost (but not quite) bitter tannin.

This is pretty much what I expect from a high quality California Zinfandel.  While a little more fruit (which might have been present if drunk younger) would have been ideal, this has plenty of Zin character and intensity.  Not super complex, but decent for the price point.  Definitely a step up from the Mayo Zin I had recently.

Value: Good

2008 Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio (Collio)

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 6/9/2013

Notes: Mild aroma of fruit (lemon and pears), flowers, and a hint of forest.  Surprisingly full-bodied with rich, round, ripe fruit (more lemon, pear, and apple) with a tantalizing hint of forest and an understated mineral acidity.  Finishes fairly long with more fruit, mineral acidity, and a suggestion of nuttiness (without bitterness).

This is a good example of what a pleasant, everyday white wine should offer.  It is rich and surprisingly full bodied with enough complexity to be interesting, yet at an attractive price point.  The suggestion of forest reminds me somewhat of Sylvaner.  As a result, this wine suggests France (and Alsace) to me, perhaps more so than Italy.  It will be interesting to try a few more Italian Pinot Grigios to see if this wine is typical or exceptional (although the Wine Spectator Top 100 selection suggests more of the latter).

Value: Very good

2003 Mayo Family Winery Old Vines Zinfandel 'Ricci Vineyard' (Russian River Valley)

Source: Sterling

Consumption Date: 5/21/2013

Notes: Mild to moderate aroma of dry leaves and earth with a hint of dark berries.  Moderate body with attenuated flavors of dry wood and leaves and bitter herbs opening a bit to dry, aromatic spices and hints of cocoa and black raspberry fruit.  Finishes relatively long with more spice, dry leaves, cocoa, and a distinct bitter note.  Moderate plus tannins.

This is somewhat disappointing for old vine Zinfandel.  The overall impression is of dryness, with very little fruit, almost none of the brambly/leafy character I associate with Zin, and a bit too much bitter herb/spice character.  The end result is a wine that is not well balanced.  It also seems to be less complex than perhaps it really is.  I am left to wonder if this wine is suffering from too much age or if it was not destined for greatness from the beginning.

Value: Somewhat below average

2002 Ramey Chardonnay 'Hyde Vineyard' (Carneros)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 5/18/2013

Notes: Musky animal/meaty aroma with hints of damp wood, chalk, and vanilla.  Light bodied and delicate, but with a fullness of flavor that hints at fruit (peaches/lemons), but is dominated by a toasty vanilla, a chalky minerality, and succulent acidity.  Finishes long with more vanilla, minerality, and lemon fruit acidity.

This is one of my first fine quality California Chardonnays and it has proven to be a worthy wine.  While it doesn’t have the finesse or depth of the Puligny-Montrachet I recently had, it is clearly of fine quality.  It is much more delicate, lively, and mineral than I would have expected, but also less fruity and heavier on toasty oak/vanilla than I would have thought (and more so than the wine probably needs).  Interesting and enjoyable enough to make me interested to explore more high quality California Chardonnay.

Value: Good

2002 Edmond Cornu Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru 'Les Moutottes'

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Suburban

Consumption Date: 5/8/2013

Notes: Moderate aroma of deep black cherry fruit with hints of forest and wet metal/stone.  Loads of black cherry fruit with a pleasant earthy note and an edge of dry wood.  Plenty of tangy acidity and rich minerality.  Finishes long with more fruit, dry leaves, and a hint of candy sweetness.  Mild tannins.

This is another interesting example of Burgundian Pinot Noir.  While it shares a certain style with the other Cornu wines I have drunk recently (primarily a freshness and fruit-forward character), it is a bit more refined and complex, befitting its premier cru status.  While enjoyable to drink, it does lack the funk and some of the earthy/barnyard complexity that really makes Burgundy appeal to me, perhaps a consequence of its somewhat humble appellation.  The acidity and minerality give this wine a freshness and vivacity that is sometimes lacking in more “serious” red Burgundies.

Value: Average

2002 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 'Les Perrieres'

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 5/5/2013

Notes: Enticing aroma of flowers and chalk with a hint of fruit.  Full bodied with loads of chalky minerality, flowers, and exotic fruit with tantalizing hints of vanilla and honey.  Suffused with a succulent acidity that keeps everything fresh and in balance.  Finishes long with flowers, honey, chalk, and more fruit.

This may be my first serious white Burgundy (discounting Chablis which is a totally different animal, so to speak).  I am simply stunned at how good this wine is.  The diversity of flavors, their distinctiveness and balance, and the lively acidity make this wine extremely appealing.  While I have had other chardonnay based wine, I can see why white Burgundy is so attractive (and popular (and expensive)).  This wine could mark the beginning of a new and costly wine infatuation (if not a downright, full-blown love affair).

Value: Excellent

2002 Edmond Cornu Aloxe-Corton

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Astor

Consumption Date: 4/14/2013

Notes: Mild, but compact aroma of fruits (cherry, berries) with hints of forest and dry wood.  Full, solid body with lots of fruit (especially black cherry with black raspberry and other berry fruit) with some dry wood and hints of forest.  More fruit on the midpalate with more prominent wood notes and a distinctive spiciness developing.  More fruit and spice on the moderate finish.  Mild tannin.

This is simply a very enjoyable wine.  While it does not have great complexity (or typical Burgundy funk), there is a nice depth to the basic characteristics of this wine.  It is straightforward, but in a very pleasing way.  More than I would have expected from a somewhat humble appellation (perhaps this is a reflection of a fine vintage).

Value: Very good

2005 Edmond Cornu Ladoix

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 3/17/2013

Notes: Moderate metallic (almost medicinal) aroma with a distinct musty/moldy character and only faint hints of spice and fruit (blackberry).  Very earthy, almost musty flavors with an odd soupy character up front, opening rather surprisingly into dry spices and rich fruit which gives way too quickly to an odd finish of musty wood and metallic minerality with some spice, but only hints of fruit.  Moderate tannin.

Another example of the tremendous variability inherent in Pinot Noir and Burgundy.  Unfortunately, in this case, most of the dominant flavors are either odd or somewhat offputting.  There does not seem to be an obvious flaw here, so I am supposing this is what is meant by a “rustic” wine.  If this wine is truly characteristic of rustic Burgundy, then I will not be a fan of such wines.  A disappointing wine overall.

Value: Poor

2004 Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia (Regional Wine of Epanomi)

Source: Sherry-Lehmann

Consumption Date: 3/8/2013

Notes: Moderate aroma of vanilla and lemon with hints of flowers and chalk and a distinctive ‘meaty’ quality.  Fresh and vibrant with lots of tart lemon fruit at the beginning, leading into a full body of fruit, vanilla, flowers, and chalky minerality.  Relatively short finish of tart lemon, vanilla, and minerals.

This wine surprised me with its quality.  Although not particularly complex, this is the type of white wine I would seriously consider for everyday drinking, as it has many of the flavor components I enjoy in white wine with bracing acidity that keeps it lively.  I am surprised at how fresh this wine tastes nine years after harvest.  I imagine the use of new oak as well as the natural acidity has helped it to survive.  I regret not trying this wine sooner and look forward to the opportunity to try a more recent vintage, as well as additional Greek wines.

Value: Good to very good

2002 Edmond Cornu Chorey-les-Beaune 'Les Bons Ores'

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 3/3/2013

Notes: Moderate earthy aroma with some dry wood and a hint of cherry fruit.  Moderate body with a fair complement of cherry and black raspberry fruit followed by hints of earth, wood, and mushrooms/truffles.  Moderate finish of more fruit with faint hints of fruit, earth, wood, and truffles.  Extremely mild tannins.

This wine has been a fine example of value Burgundy.  Although from a humble appellation (but in a good vintage), this wine has plenty of character to be enjoyable.  While not particularly complex (and having an earthy aroma that doesn’t quite reach typical Burgundy ‘funk’), this wine is clearly Pinot and clearly Burgundy.  It is also a step up in quality and character from the recent generic Bourgogne I had from this producer.  All in all, a very enjoyable wine.

Value: Very good to excellent

2005 Edmond Cornu Bourgogne 'Les Barrigards'

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 2/18/2013

Notes: Fine aroma of flowers (roses?), dark cherry fruit, and wet stone.  Full bodied with plenty of deep, dark cherry and blackberry fruit as well as a rich earthiness and hints of dry wood/forest floor.   Long finish of fruit, earth, and wood.

Although from a humble appellation, this wine has all of the basic qualities that I enjoy about Burgundy (especially deep fruit and earthy flavors).  It lacks typical Burgundy funk and falls short in complexity, but considering its origins and its price, this wine is quite enjoyable and a pleasant surprise.

Value: Good to very good

2006 Macari Sauvignon Blanc 'Katherine's Vineyard' (North Fork of Long Island)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 2/1/2013

Notes: Sharp aroma of sweet lemon fruit with hints of grass and herbs.  Moderate body of tart fruit (mostly lemon with a hint of white grape and perhaps gooseberry) develops into a surprisingly chalky minerality with hints of herbs and grass.  Short mineral finish with a hint of fresh wood.

This wine has been a pleasant surprise, as based on its age and appellation, my expectations were not especially high.  However, this wine displays many of the characteristics I enjoy in white wine (even if the profile is not strictly what I expect from Sauvignon Blanc).  While I found the minerality to be almost shocking, it is one of the traits in white wine that I really enjoy.  The level of complexity in this wine was also a pleasant surprise.  Although this wine does not display any obvious age, I wonder what it would have tasted like a few years younger.  This wine makes my decision to be more aggressive in my pursuit of locavory a bit easier on the wine front.

Value: Very good.

2009 Cascina Feipu dei Massaretti Pigato (Riviera Ligure di Ponente)

Importer: Kermit Lynch

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 1/11/2013

Notes: Mild fruity and floral aroma with a hint of wet chalk.  Fairly light in body with pleasant lively lemon fruit with floral notes and a mild, chalky mineral frame.  Finishes full with a nutty, borderline bitterness fading into more tart lemon fruit and chalk.  Surprisingly long finish.

This is a pleasant, if somewhat pedestrian white wine from the Italian Riviera.  It is enjoyable to drink, but without any serious depth or complexity.  Still it is a well made wine with some interesting flavor characteristics.

Value: Average