1999 Paul Bara 'Comtesse Marie de France' Champagne Brut Grand Cru 'Bouzy'

Importer: Kermit Lynch

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 12/31/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of chalk, flowers, and yeast with a hint of fruit.  Creamy texture, with upfront chalk and floral notes evolving into a distinctive bready/yeastiness underpinned by a tart, lemon fruit acidity.  Also has a hint of sweetness and deeper fruitiness.  Finishes long with more yeast, chalk, and hints of fruit.

This is a really interesting champagne, in that there is a lot going on in each sip (with different characteristics assuming prominence at different times).  While it has all of the hallmarks of what I consider fine champagne, it is particularly noteworthy for the bready/yeasty component that I really enjoy.  Although not particularly fruity and definitely acidic, there is enough of a hint of sweetness and fruit to suggest that this is straddling the line between brut and the next sweeter category (extra dry?).  Although it is perhaps not perfectly balanced, it has enough complexity and variability to make for very enjoyable consumption.

Value: Good to very good.

2000 Meo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 'Les Chaumes'

Importer: Kermit Lynch

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 12/16/2012

Notes: Intense aroma of earth, truffles, and spices with hints of dark fruit and dry wood.  Very silky texture with mild dark fruit (black cherry), loads of spice, and a restrained earthiness and mushroom/truffle umami character.  Finishes long with more spice and fruit and a slightly astringent dry wood note.  Moderate tannin.

This wine demonstrates yet another interesting variation on what can be done with Pinot Noir in Burgundy.  Besides the predominance of spice in the flavor and aroma, this wine is remarkable for its amazing silky texture.  It has an interesting and pleasant aroma, although not quite the ‘funk’ I expect from Burgundy.  Although it has some characteristics that I associate with the 2000 vintage (relatively light body and almost ethereal fruit), these are somewhat masked by what appears to be a predominance of new oak (presumably contributing the spiciness as well as the slight astringency (which would be a fault if it was any more prominent)).  Perhaps not as complex (or perhaps balanced) as I would prefer, but still a very enjoyable wine.

Value: Good

2002 Eugen Muller - Riesling Auslese (Forster Kirchenstuck)

Importer: Terry Theise

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 12/15/2012

Notes: Mild, yet rich aroma of honeyed fruit with a hint of wet chalk and a wisp of flowers.  Full bodied with incredible rich, honeyed fruit (white grape, meyer lemon, and, perhaps, peach) framed with a pleasing acidic tang and floral hints.  More honey and fruit with a mild minerality on the very long finish.

This is an excellent and intriguing example of German Riesling Auslese.  The overwhelming characteristic is rich, elegant honeyed fruit which I find unparalleled in any other Riesling I have had.  While not readily apparent, this wine offers enough acidity to keep it from being cloying.  The only criticism of this wine is that it is not as complex as other German Rieslings I have had, as the chalky/stony and floral characteristics that I associate with these wines are very subdued in this example.

Value: Very good to excellent

2001 Woodenhead Zinfandel (Alexander Valley 'Braccialini Vineyards')

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 11/2/2012

Notes: Distinctive aroma of rich, ripe fruit (blackberries, raspberries) with hints of cocoa powder and herbs and a slight tinge of alcohol.  Chock full of rich, ripe fruit notes (more berry fruits) bordering on jamminess, with a prominent milk chocolate note and hints of dry wood, herbs, dry leaves, and an iron minerality.  Finishes long with more chocolate, herbs, and a hint of bitterness.  Mild tannins.

This is a fine example of California Zinfandel.  Although intensely fruity and with the most obvious chocolate note of probably any wine I have drunk, it also possesses a certain elegance, perhaps as a result of age.  It does lack somewhat in complexity as the typical brambly, leafy character of Zinfandel is very muted.  It also has an almost absurdly high alcohol level (16.5%), which suggests some parallels (not altogether bad, but perhaps not ideal either) with Port.  Perhaps this would be better for after dinner than as an aperitif.

Value: Good

2008 Marc Deschamps 'Les Champs de Cri' (Pouilly Fume)

Importer: Rosenthal

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 11/1/2012

Notes: Fine aroma of chalky minerality with tangy fruit (lemon/white grape) and a hint of wet fur.  Very crisp and succulent flavors of acidic fruit (lemon with hints of white grape, grapefruit, and perhaps gooseberry) on a solid foundation of chalky minerality.  Finishes relatively long with a tangy, chalky minerality.

I believe this wine is my first Loire Sauvignon Blanc.  As such, it is quite different from any other Sauvignon Blanc I have had.  It is very acidic/tangy, but in a quite enjoyable fashion, with a minimal fruit character, but a very engaging minerality.  It also has distinctive (if not powerful) aromatics that I have not found in other Sauvignon Blanc.  It doesn’t have the opulent fruitiness of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, nor does it have the full, spicy fruitiness that I associate with the best from California.  Nevertheless, I look forward to drinking additional Loire Sauvignon Blancs during the course of this month.

Value: Good to very good

2007 Cimarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (Marches)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 9/21/2012

Notes: Musky aroma of ripe white grape and wet stones.  Medium-full body with tangy lemon fruit, an intriguing muskiness, wet stone minerality, and a hint of nuttiness (almond/hazelnut).  Mild finish of minerals, muskiness, and a mild, but distinct oxidized note.

This is a fairly simple, straightforward white wine with enough complexity to be interesting and a good candidate for an everyday wine.  The fullness is a bit surprising as is the distinctive muskiness in the aroma and flavor.  I do find the oxidized note to be out of place and a bit offputting.  I am wondering if this tendency toward oxidation is a consequence of using synthetic cork (plastic in this case), as I have noticed this in other wines I have had that were sealed with synthetic cork.  Of course this may be exacerbated by the somewhat less than ideal storage of my wines (too warm during the summer months) and/or my propensity to drink wines later than ideal.  This concern is definitely worth further monitoring.

Value: Average to slightly above average

2001 Dos Victorias 'Gran Elias Mora' (Toro)

Importer: Grapes of Spain (Aurelio Cabestrero Selection)

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 9/19/2012

Notes: Deep, dense aroma of damp earth, dark fruit, and, perhaps, truffles.  Full bodied with plenty of dark fruit intensity framed by an herbaceous woody quality and a warm earthiness (not quite tar and not quite leather).  Moderate finish of herbaceous wood (hinting at bitterness) and warm earth.  Moderate to strong tannins.

This wine has proven to be an interesting take on the Tempranillo grape in Spain.  It has a fruitiness and intensity both in taste and aroma that distinguish it from the other Tempranillo based wines I have drunk recently as well as from my hazy memory of another Toro wine I drank some years back.  While this is clearly a well-made effort, I am finding the midpalate and finish to be a bit too intense with flavors that are not my favorites, particularly the hint of bitter herbs.  For an intense wine, the finish is surprisingly understated.  I believe this wine is also somewhat past its peak (particularly for a “modern” style, near fruit bomb which I expect this was in its youth).  I think the aged nature of this wine has mellowed the fruit intensity somewhat and probably brought the other flavors to prominence, resulting in a wine that is now slightly out of balance.  This might have been better (or at least more characteristic) drunk a few years younger.

Value: Average to good

2001 Vina Sastre 'Pago de Santa Cruz' (Ribera del Duero)

Importer: De Maison Selections

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 9/9/2012

Notes: Fairly intense aroma of deep sweet, ripe fruit with notes of warm spices and dried leaves/wood.  Full bodied with loads of bright fruit (blackberry, plum, and, perhaps, black currant) framed with more warm spice and dried leaves/wood with a faint hint of bitter herbs.  Moderate finish of dry wood with some spice and a faint mineral tang.  Moderate tannins.

This wine is certainly a different take on Tempranillo than the Rioja Gran Reserva I drank a few days ago.  It is much more fruit forward (in a brighter/more acidic style) with less overall complexity.  This strikes me as being more in the “modern” style than I really prefer (though not in the “fruit bomb” style of modern Rioja) and the hint of bitterness, while subtle, is not a characteristic I typically enjoy in wine.  I am also wondering if this would have been better served a few degrees cooler (than 71°F) and/or a few years younger.

Value: Slightly below average

1996 Marques de Tomares Rioja Gran Reserva

Importer: Parador Selections

Source: Astor

Consumption Date: 9/5/2012

Notes: High-toned aroma of warm herbs, spices, vanilla, and fruit (black currant) with a woody/leafy note and a distinctive mildly medicinal, alcohol quality.  Medium bodied with intense fruit (dark cherries and mild black currant); a dry, woody, leafy character with an edge of slightly bitter herbs framed by a mild chocolate note.  Finishes long with sweet fruit and leafy, dry wood and chocolate notes.  Moderate tannin.

This wine has proven to be a bit puzzling, although enjoyable, and pleasantly challenging.  While seemingly an intensely fruity, but simple wine, this actually has a compelling complexity to it.  While perhaps not as well balanced or as elegant as I expect from Rioja Gran Reservas, it has enough interesting components, including an unexpected fruitiness for the style, to be intriguing.

Value: Good

2000 Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru 'Blanchot'

Consumption Date: 9/3/2012

Notes: Fine chalky aroma with floral and lemon fruit notes.  Light bodied, but with bright acidity, richness, mild lemon fruit, a light vanilla note, and a succulent sour acidity.  More vanilla, sour lemon acidity, and a fine chalky minerality on the long finish.

A very fine example of Chablis with the expected acidity and minerality, but with a surprising amount of complexity, more so because of the initial impression of a light bodied wine (with the expectation of inconsequentiality).  I am finding the succulent acidity and the minerality to be a delicious combination.  I expect this will pair very well with my belated birthday lobsters.

Value: Good (or slightly better)

2008 Cabriz 'Colheita Seleccionada' (Dao)

Source: Sterling

Consumption Date: 7/30/2012

Notes: Mild aromas of dried cherries and raisins with a hint of dry leaves.  Solid ripe cherry and black raspberry flavors with hints of spice and dry leaves.  Finishes long with more rich fruit, additional spice, a dry cedar note, and a subtle minerality.  Moderate plus tannins.

This has been my first wine from Portugal’s Dao region and frankly it has blown me away.  It has tons of fruit and enough other flavor components to give it a pleasant, if not dramatic, complexity while offering a surprising smoothness and elegance.  Not as deep and complex as other Portuguese wines I have had, but extremely good for its price point.  If I were to buy wine by the case for a party or everyday consumption, this is definitely the wine I would choose.  Well deserving of its recognition as a Wine Spectator Top 100 wine.

Value: Unbelievable

1998 Chateau Haut-Corbin (St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 7/22/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of spice, graphite, and dry wood with a faint hint of dark, ripe fruit.  Plenty of spice and dry wood flavors with a stronger fruit core (plum (?) and blackberries).  More fruit and spice with a mild, but distinct, graphite minerality on the long finish.  Moderate tannin.

This wine has been a bit of a surprise to me, as it is very silky, refined, and elegant, but does not have the power and intensity I normally associate with Bordeaux.  I am led to believe that this may be characteristic of St. Emilion wines, as Merlot (as opposed to Cabernet Sauvignon) tends to be a higher proportion of the blend.  Many of the flavors I associate with Bordeaux are present, but in muted form.  This wine also lacks somewhat in complexity (when compared to the Burgundies which I generally prefer).  I also wonder if it would have been fruitier and perhaps more dramatic, if not less elegant, if drunk younger.  Still, it is quite enjoyable and promises to pair well with a grilled grass-fed ribeye.

Value: Good to very good

1964 Monte Real Rioja Gran Reserva

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 7/21/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of dark fruit and flowers.  Light bodied with delicate flavors of dried flowers (roses/violets?) and dark fruit with hints of earth, spice, tar and a fine iron minerality.  Moderate finish of fruit, earth, and minerals.  Mild to moderate tannin.

This wine is a testament to the ageability of fine Rioja.  The wine has a pleasing light, ethereal quality, yet with plenty of complexity.  It retains some of the fruit, spiciness, and dryness characteristic of Rioja, with many additional complex aged bottle flavors (some for which I do not have adequate descriptors).  While in general I prefer wines that have more primary fruit, it is certainly pleasant to drink something with significant bottle age as an occasional diversion.

Value: Good to very good value

1996 Turley Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley 'Grist Vineyard')

Source: Sterling

Consumption Date: 6/26/2012

Notes: Fine aroma of musky ripe berries with hints of spice and chocolate.  Mellow flavors of dark berries and cherry fruit with a distinct chocolate note, plenty of spice, a mild leafiness, and a suggestion of oxidation.  Long finish of spicy fruit, chocolate, and a hint of wet stone minerality.  Mild tannin.

This wine has opened my eyes to the potential of aged Zinfandel.  While I can see why most critics contend that Zinfandel does not age well, my experience with this wine suggests otherwise.  While this wine has clearly lost the intense primary fruit and the briary, dry leafiness that is characteristic of younger Zinfandel, this wine has developed an elegance, subtlety, and complexity that I find to be very enjoyable.  I find certain parallels with fine Burgundy, although the flavor profile is different.  Although the alcohol level in this wine is quite high (16+%), the alcohol is not evident in the flavor profile (but certainly in the effect of drinking most of a bottle on an empty stomach).  This wine has exceeded my expectations.

Value: Good to very good

2002 Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru 'Monts Mains'

Source: Astor

Consumption Date: 6/18/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of almonds with hints of wet metal, grass, and apple fruit.  Light bodied with very mild fruit (green apple and a hint of lemon), a distinct ‘green’ note (grass/fresh cut vegetation), a steely metallic/chalk mineral core, and a nutty almond note hinting at mild bitterness.  Relatively long finish dominated by chalky minerality, but with mild fruit, nut, steel, and grassy notes.

This wine has been difficult to pin down, as it is very well made and elegant, yet light bodied and understated.  Despite its seeming lack of weight and depth, there are many flavor components present, although again in an understated way that does not suggest complexity.  I am finding this to be puzzling, yet enjoyable.  However, as Raveneau has a reputation and therefore a following, this wine is expensive for the appellation and below average value.

2004 Carol Shelton Zinfandel 'Rocky Reserve' (Rockpile 'Florence Vineyard')

Source: Sterling

Consumption Date: 6/15/2012

Notes: Moderate, but intense aromas of black raspberry fruit and warm underbrush with hints of spice and chocolate.  Medium bodied with a luscious, elegant fruitiness (black raspberry and dark cherry) with an understated leafy, spiciness and a hint of chocolate.  Moderate finish of fruit and more prominent spiciness, with a hint of mineral tang  Mild to moderate tannin.

This wine has proven to be a different, but extremely enjoyable, take on California Zinfandel.  It is very definitely a fruit bomb, in that it has dramatic and dominant fruitiness, but it is surprisingly fine and elegant with enough complexity to remain interesting.  Although the typical Zinfandel notes of leaves/spice/underbrush are there, they are understated, though equally fine. The hint of chocolate was another pleasant surprise as were the relatively mild tannins.  Exceptionally well balanced.  Very good value.

2002 La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru 'Mont de Milieu'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 6/8/2012

Notes: Pale yellow color.  Fine aroma of flowers, wet stone, and a hint of fruit (apple/white grape).  Light bodied with crisp flavors of fruit (apple, lemon, white grape, peach) balanced by a pleasant acid mineral tang.  Moderate finish of more fruit and minerals as well as a strong note of vanilla, musk, and fresh cooked vegetables (beans?).

This is one of those wines that really makes me understand the appeal of a specific region.  This is an incredibly crisp, refreshing wine with a depth of complexity that defies its light body and color.  The strong vegetal note on the finish was completely unexpected.  At first I was concerned that it might be a fault (especially since I had difficulty identifying a descriptor for it), but while it may be a bit obtrusive, it does not seem out of place and adds another touch of complexity to the wine.  This should also be a very food friendly wine.  Worthy of Wine Spectator’s Top 100 ranking.  Excellent value.

2005 Dashe Zinfandel 'Louvau Vineyard' (Dry Creek Valley)

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 6/4/2012

Notes: Moderate aroma of spicy fruit (blackberry, black raspberry) with a hint of dry wood.  Medium bodied with mild spicy fruit framed by intense dry wood notes with a hint of dry leaves.  Moderate finish of spicy blackberry fruit and more dry wood.  Moderate to strong tannins.

This wine is a bit of a puzzle.  Upon first tasting, it seemed to taste of nothing, but with a dry, spicy finish.  Now it seems to have opened up and is revealing some fruit and spice, but with a predominance of dry wood.  I am not sure if my impressions are a true reflection of the wine or if there is something physiological that is interfering with my perceptions.  In any case, this wine has proven to be something of a disappointment as it is not hitting the intense fruity, brambly characteristics that I love in Zinfandel.  It seems to be trying for high (almost over-the-top) intensity, but it doesn’t seem to have the fruit to back it up and the wood notes are dominant to overpowering.  A bit more tannic than I really enjoy.  Disappointing value.

2000 Zind Humbrecht Riesling 'Brand' (Turkheim, Alsace)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 5/28/2012

Notes: Deep golden color.  Mild aroma of flowers and minerals with a ripe apple note.  Rich, full luscious body with lots of ripe fruit (more apple and white grape), flowers, and a complex, almost spicy minerality continuing through the moderate finish.

This wine is reminiscent of German Auslese Riesling, except that it is seemingly not quite as sweet, nor is it as finely balanced with acidity, although it does have more mineral complexity and spiciness.  It does have some characteristics (the spiciness and a round ripeness to the fruit) that I am coming to associate with Alsatian wines.  I am somewhat curious to investigate the usual questions a relatively new wine experience suggests, i.e., what are the influences of vintage, producer, and terroir.  Although Alsatian Riesling is not likely to displace my preference for German Ausleses, it will be an interesting area to further explore, on occasion.  A Kermit Lynch selection.  Average value.

2000 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru

Source: Sterling Cellars

Consumption Date: 5/27/2012

Notes: Intense aroma of spice, ripe fruit, tar, and a hint of dry wood.  Medium bodied, with fine structure and intense flavors of spice and fruit with an edge of tar.  More fruit, spice, and dry wood on the long finish.  Mild tannin.

This is a very fine wine with a very fine structure and balance, but surprising intensity, yet retaining a lightness and ethereality that I have found to be common (and highly enjoyable) in 2000 Burgundies.  It does not necessarily match with my conception of what Burgundy wine should taste like, especially the intensity and the tar component and the lack of obvious earthiness in the flavors and, particularly, in the aroma.  Yet it is clearly Pinot, clearly Burgundy, and clearly a fine wine.  Yet another example of the seeming uniqueness in every Burgundy I taste (leading me to wonder if I will ever really get a handle on this region).  This wine ranks near the top of all wines I have had the pleasure of drinking.  Good value.

2002 Meo-Camuzet Corton Grand Cru 'Clos Rognet'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/26/2012

Notes: Intense aroma of peppery fruit and chocolate.  Elegant, finely structured body with more chocolate and ripe cherry fruit.  Moderate to long finish with more chocolate, cherry fruit, and spice.  Mild tannin.

This wine showed yet another side of what Pinot Noir can produce in Burgundy.  Intense and elegant, but somewhat simple (multi-dimensional, but without complexity).  Although rated as classic by Wine Spectator, this wine fell short of what I consider to be classic Burgundy.  This wine also left me wondering if it would have developed more complexity and, therefore, been more enjoyable with another 5 to 10 years of age on it.  Overall, an interesting variation of Burgundy, but not especially to my taste.  Disappointing value.

1990 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru 'Teurons'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/25/2012

Notes: Fine Burgundy aroma of damp earth and ripe cherry fruit.  Medium bodied with tons of spice and plenty of ripe dark cherry fruit.  Earth, spice, and mild fruit on the moderate finish.  Mild tannin.

This has been a successful experiment in the effect of vintage in Burgundy (by way of comparison to the same producer and appellation from 1983 that I drank yesterday).  The conclusion is that vintage is significant (although actual age differences also play a role).  This wine has more fruit, spice, and elegance than the 83, although it is less ethereal and with less aged/oxidized characteristics.  This wine is further proof of the greatness of the 1990 vintage.  Perhaps a bit past its peak, but still plenty vibrant and complex.  Very enjoyable.  Good value.

1983 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru 'Teurons'

Source: Suburban

Consumption Date: 5/25/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of spice and ripe cherry fruit.  Light to medium body with moderate spice and cherry fruit notes with a hint of chocolate.  Moderate finish of spice, fruit, and a hint of minerality. Mild tannins.

This wine made for an interesting comparison with the 1978 village Beaune I drank yesterday.  This wine certainly had more fruit and less of the aged, oxidized, mushroom character that the 78 had.  While this should have made this wine more enjoyable, I found it to be somewhat less complex than the 78 and mostly lacking the Burgundy/barnyard funk that I enjoy, although this was a bit more elegant.  Overall, a well-made wine and enjoyable.  Good value.

1978 Pierre Bouree Beaune

Source: Sterling Cellars

Consumption Date: 5/23/2012

Notes: Light garnet with a wide, pronounced brick orange rim.  Moderate aroma of barnyard, forest floor, and an unusual gamy mushroom note.  Full bodied with strong gamy mushroom flavors; a pleasing spicy, herbaceousness; and a hint of ripe cherries and damp hay.  Moderately long finish of spice and dry wood with a hint of cherry fruit.  Mild tannins.

Overall, this is pretty much what I expected, except that it has a lot more complexity than I would have expected for a village level wine.  Although the fruit has become secondary to the more aged characteristics of the wine (e.g., mushroom notes), it has retained enough fruit to be enjoyable.  Although somewhat oxidized as indicated by the color and the aroma, the flavor is not as dominated by oxidative qualities as I might have expected.  Selecting this wine primarily because of the vintage and the curiosity factor, I was not expecting too much from a lesser appellation and a lesser known negociant; I have, however, found this to be enjoyable and educational.  I don’t expect to become a connoisseur of highly aged wines (although if my rate of purchasing continues to exceed my consumption, I may become one inadvertently) nor do I plan to pursue many older vintages, as I prefer wines that have a better balance between the fruit and the secondary, aged flavors.  However,  I will occasionally enjoy the trip back through time that only an older vintage wine can provide.  Good value.

2005 Paul Pernot Beaune 'Clos de Dessus des Marconnets'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/6/2012

Notes: Mild aroma, mostly of spice, but with a hint of wood.  Big, bold, fruity flavor (mostly dark cherry) with a broad supporting spiciness.  More fruit, spices, and a note of dry wood on the moderate finish.  Mild to moderate tannin.

For a village level wine, this has been a bit of a pleasant surprise.  Although it lacks the “funk” and the complexity of a higher level Burgundy, it has lot of enjoyable Pinot character, especially the fruit and spice.  Another example of the magic of Burgundy at a very reasonable price (I’ve had Oregon Pinots at twice the price that deliver half the enjoyment of this wine).  This would be an excellent candidate for an (almost) everyday wine.  Excellent value.

2007 Hirsch Riesling 'Gaisberg' (Kamptal)

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 5/5/2012

Notes: Mild floral aroma with hints of minerals, ripe fruit (apple), and a faint “animal” aroma.  Light bodied with distinct floral and mineral notes as well as ripe fruit (white peach, apple, white grape) with a suggestion of sweetness.  Succulent acidity leads into a moderate finish of fruit, flowers, and minerals.

This wine has been a complete surprise and, frankly, I’m not quite sure what to make of it.  While it clearly has all of the flavor components I associate with Riesling, its lightness makes it seem almost insubstantial and the flavor components are mostly fleeting and hard to pin down.  As such, it stands in stark contrast to the Auslesen I am used to drinking, as it is not as full, sweet, and unctuous as those.   On the other hand, this is clearly a well made wine and despite its “lightness”, the flavors are intriguing and compelling.  Overall, the effect is ethereal and quite enjoyable.  A Terry Theise selection.  Average to good value.

2008 Hans Wirsching Silvaner Trocken (Iphofer Kronsberg)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 4/29/2012

Notes: Extremely pale yellow color.  Fine aroma of forest vegetation, wet chalk, and a hint of ripe white grape.  Light bodied, but with relatively bold flavors of forest, ripe white grapes, and chalk with a hint of spice and herbs framed by a pleasant, crisp acidity.  Surprisingly long finish of ripe grape and apple.

This has proven to be an interesting contrast to the Alsatian Silvaner I recently drank.  While not as full bodied or sweet (relatively speaking), as the Alsatian wine, this has surprising depth and much more acidic minerality, which is a characteristic I really enjoy when I find it in a white wine.  Overall, very enjoyable and a good candidate for a high quality, every day wine.  A Rudi Wiest selection.  Good value.

2002 Dom. Roulot Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru

Source: Burgundy Wine Company

Consumption Date: 4/25/2012

Notes: Mild, but complex aroma of spices, earth, cherry fruit, and perhaps medicinal herbs (as well as other components I cannot place).  Light bodied, but with bright ripe cherry fruit; spices; a pleasant, mild, musky earthiness; and perhaps a faint hint of tar framed with a fine acidic, minerality.  More of the same on the moderately long finish, plus some toasty, vanilla oak notes.  Mild tannin.

A nice example of a Burgundy from a lesser appellation in a fine vintage.  Although light in body, it has plenty of complexity and enough fruit to be both interesting and enjoyable.  The most obvious indications of its lesser status are it lack of “funk” in the aroma, its light body, and its relative lack of depth and complexity.  Still, this is another interesting milestone on my journey to understanding Burgundy.  A Kermit Lynch selection.  Somewhat above average value.

2002 Charles Schleret Sylvaner 'Cuvee Reserve' (Alsace)

Source: Rosenthal Wine Merchant


Consumption Date: 4/23/2012

Notes: Brilliant golden color.  Mild aroma of white grapes with a hint of pine and a characteristic “forest” aroma that I can’t quite place.  Full bodied with a plenty of musky, ripe fruit (more grape as well as apple), a distinctive “forest” note, and hints of pine and baking spices.  Moderate finish of fruit with a nice buttery sweetness.

This wine has been another pleasant surprise (after a long dry spell).  It has the aroma and flavor characteristics I remember from the basic Sylvaner I had from this producer some years ago, but with additional depth, concentration, and sweetness.  While I am not normally a fan of sweet wines, this carries its sweetness well (presumably due to balanced acidity), similar to a Riesling Auslese (although much less fine, floral, or mineral than the latter).  This wine is one of the gems that I look for: well made with evocative flavors and an excellent value.  A Rosenthal selection.

2004 Brundlmayer Lagenloiser Gruner Veltliner 'Kamptaler Terrasen' (Kamptal)

Consumption Date: 3/16/2012

Notes: Dramatic aroma of wet hay and toffee with a wet chalk note and hints of ripe fruits (lemon/apple(?)).  Fine round fruity flavors (gooseberry (presumably) and lemon) with a bright acid, mineral note (chalk dust) leading into an almond note.  More fruit, chalk, and nuttiness on the long finish.

This wine has been another interesting variation in what Austrian Gruner has to offer.  The aroma is frankly astonishing as it is unique in my experience of wine.  The wine itself is more reminiscent of other wines than the Gruners I have recently consumed.  The fruity character (presumably gooseberry, although I don’t have a personal reference for this fruit) reminds me of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, while the minerality suggests Muscadet (or even Champagne), while the nuttiness is reminiscent of Savagnin (or even sherry).  Nevertheless, this is clearly a well crafted wine and is further piquing my interest in the wines of Austria.  A Terry Theise selection.  Very good value.

2004 Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd (Loibner Muhlpoint)

Source: Astor

Consumption Date: 3/10/2012

Notes: Fine nutty aroma with grassy and chalk notes and a hint of lemon fruit.  Moderate body with full, round fruitiness (lemon and perhaps pineapple) with a solid core of chalky minerality.  Finishes strong (and moderately long) with a fine spicy note and a mild hint of grass and herbs.

This is another fine Gruner that has really helped to solidify my understanding of this varietal (and to cement it in my mind as a varietal to explore in additional depth).  This is another clearly well made wine with enjoyable flavor components, impeccable balance, and enough complexity to be really enjoyable.  Considering that it is a Smaragd (grapes from the highest ripeness level), it doesn’t seem to have any apparent sweetness (which is just fine).  Overall a very enjoyable wine.  A Terry Theise selection.  Very good to excellent value.

1999 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage 'Les Jalets'

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 3/4/2012

Notes: Deeply earthy aroma with hints of animal feces (really).  Rich, almost elegant, full body with loads of fruit (mostly black currant and cherry), a broad herbaceous/vegetal character, with a fine, succulent mineral core.  Finishes long with aromatic herbs and spice, a fine fruity richness, and a hint of tar.  Fine to moderate tannin.

As my first Northern Rhone red and practically my first Syrah, this wine has proven to be most interesting.  While the aroma is somewhat off-putting (honestly my first thought was barnyard with dog shit (although it has mellowed somewhat)), the wine itself is surprisingly rich, fruity, and complex.  I am finding certain parallels with Burgundy (aroma, moderate tannin, cherry fruit), but with unique minerality and spiciness and a general flavor profile that I associate with warmer climate wines.  Of course, as my first Northern Rhone/Syrah, I am curious about the effects of vintage, producer, and, especially, age on this wine.  It has some characteristics that I associate with (or assume are related to) bottle age, but I have no idea how these are enhancing or masking the typical Northern Rhone Syrah flavors.  I suspect this wine would have been even better a few years younger.  I will certainly be looking forward to trying more Rhone Syrah’s this month.  I’m a bit worried this could be another region that will rank amongst my favorites (resulting in the desire for more purchasing).  Very good to excellent value.

2004 Nigl Gruner Veltliner 'Alte Reben' (Kremstal)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 3/3/2012

Notes: Mild grassy, herbaceous aroma with hints of fruit (pear/apple/lemon).  Dense body with tons of fruit (white grape, apple, and lemon) and a mild mineral background.  Fine balance between a distinct residual sweetness and minerally acidity.  Moderate finish of fruit and mineral.

This wine has been something of a surprise (I guess they all are to some extent (at least judging by my notes)).  It is very fine and elegant with loads of fruit (somewhat reminiscent of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc) and enough minerality to keep it interesting. The distinct sweetness (although much less than a German Auslese, for example) was unexpected, and although it is not as spicy/herbaceous as I would have expected for Gruner, it is quite enjoyable.  Clearly a very well made wine with a distinctive character.  A Terry Theise selection.  Good value.

2008 Sportoletti Grechetto (Assisi)

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 2/28/2012

Notes: Rich aroma of ripe fruit (green grape and lemon with hints of pear and melon) and minerals.  Relatively full bodied with a nice round fruitiness (a balance of melon and grape with a bit of lemon) and a pleasantly chalky minerality.  Moderately long minerally finish.

This is one of those pleasant surprises that somewhat random wine purchasing periodically offers up – a very pleasant, well made, surprisingly enjoyable and complex wine from an unassuming appellation at a very favorable price point.  This wine offers a full richness balanced with nearly perfect acidity and minerality, yet it is priced such that it could be enjoyed as an every day table wine.  I will certainly be seeking out other examples of this grape from Umbria.  Very good to excellent value.

2003 Archery Summit Pinot Noir 'Arcus Estate' (Willamette Valley)

Source: PJs

Consumption Date: 2/25/2012

Notes: Fine aroma of candied fruit with a hint of dry wood.  Light to moderate body with elegant structure.  Mild ripe fruit (dark cherry and blackberry) framed by strong, dry wood notes evolving into tar and spice notes with more dry wood on the long finish.  Moderate plus tannins.

This is yet another interesting take on Pinot Noir, although this wine suggests California to me much more than Oregon or Burgundy.  Although this is clearly a well made effort, it has clearly seen a lot of wood (more than I believe it should have).  The wood notes are dominant while the fruit is very reserved (more so in the taste than the aroma).  The tar note was also unexpected (and not entirely welcome).  Although this wine should have tolerated more age (at least according to Wine Spectator), I am nearly convinced that Oregon Pinots should be drunk relatively young (a theory that I anticipate testing).  I have also noted in the last couple of Oregon Pinots I have drunk that they have actually been better when I have finished the bottle one to a few days later.  I will be interested to see if that is the case with this wine.  Below average value.

2004 Ken Wright Pinot Noir 'Carter Vineyard' (Willamette Valley)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 2/18/2012

Notes: Interesting deep earthy, musky aroma that is highly reminiscent of Burgundy (although it doesn’t quite hit “barnyard”).  Surprisingly light bodied with more musky earthiness, mild wood notes, and a modest hint of black cherry fruit that carry through, with a mild mineral tang, on the medium finish.  Mild to moderate tannin.

This wine is carrying through some of the themes I am beginning to associate with Oregon Pinot Noir, although with a bit more complexity and character than the Lemelson Thea’s Selection I recently had.  In particular I am noticing the strong, but not quite Burgudian aromatics, the distinct lightness in body, and the prominence of wood-derived flavor components.  I am finding the light bodied nature of these wines to be a bit off-putting, as this quality does not seem to support the strong flavor profile particularly well.  I am also wondering if these wines should be consumed significantly younger, as they don’t seem to be holding on to a lot of fruit (although it is difficult to determine how much fruit was there to begin with).  I’m more on the fence about Oregon Pinot now than I was previously, but I guess I will have to drink some more of these wines to determine if the first couple I had were exceptional or if the wines I have had recently are more typical.  I will also have to try some younger wines to see what influence age has on them.  Average value.

2004 Lemelson Pinot Noir 'Thea's Selection' (Willamette Valley)

Source: Zachys


Consumption Date: 2/10/2012

Notes: Deep musky, earthy aroma.  Surprisingly light bodied with bright fruit flavors (mostly red cherry), fine acidity, and a distinctive minerality, but also giving a surprisingly watery impression.  Finishes fairly quickly with more crisp acid minerality, musky fruitiness, and an intriguing herbaceous note.  Mild tannin.

This is yet another interesting take on Pinot Noir.  While this wine seems to be aiming for Burgundian territory, to me it seems like more of a hybrid between Burgundy (especially in the aroma) and New Zealand (in the bright acidic fruit) with a distinctive minerality all its own.  It doesn’t have quite the weight or presence I associate with the few other Oregon Pinots I have had.  The minerality and the watery midpalate give an impression almost of Burgundy flavored mineral water (but with more depth on the finish) which is a bit offputting.  As always, I wonder if this would have been different/better consumed a few years younger.  It should prove interesting to compare this with other Oregon Pinots I plan to drink in the near future.  Decent value.

2006 Sattler St. Laurent (Burgenland)

Source: Viscount

Consumption Date: 1/29/2012

Notes: Deep, nearly opaque purple.  Musky aroma with ripe fruit and dry wood notes.  Light to medium bodied with loads of fruit (mostly cherry) with precise acidity framed by a broad dry oakiness with a hint of spices and cedar.  Long finish of fruit and dry, spicy wood.  Mild to moderate tannin.

As my first Austrian red wine, this has been another pleasant surprise.  I purchased it because the variety has been compared favorably with Pinot Noir.  While I find that it is somewhat reminiscent of Pinot Noir, it is made in a different style that emphasizes ripe fruitiness that reminds me more of Oregon than Burgundy.  While intensely fruity with a pleasing oakiness, this also lacks the earthiness and complexity (and funk) of Burgundy.  However, on its own merits it is a well-made, enjoyable wine that is well suited to everyday drinking at a very attractive price point.  A Terry Theise selection.  Very good value.

2009 Michel Delhommeau Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 'Cuvee Harmonie'

Source: Zachys

Consumption Date: 1/27/2012

Notes: Very pale yellow (nearly clear).  Mild aroma of flowers, wet chalk, and white grape, with a hint of grassiness and sea air.  Crisp and light bodied with mild fruit and wet stone minerality that evolves into a slightly musky ripe fruit note with a mild herb/spice note.  Moderate finish of lemony fruit and minerals.

This is what I would expect from a Muscadet (mild fruit/crisp acidity), although with more minerality than I would have expected and a pleasing, if subtle, complexity.  A very nice effort and consequently a very good value.

2004 Ruca Malen Malbec 'Kinien' (Mendoza)

Source: Zachys


Consumption Date: 1/24/2012

Notes: Intense, nearly opaque purple color.  Dramatic spicy, herbal, fruity aroma.  Intensely fruity (ripe cherry and other berry fruits) with a broad, well-balanced spiciness, a distinct milk chocolate note, and hints of tar, tobacco, and graphite on the long finish.  Mild to moderate tannin.

This wine has proven to be a pleasant surprise.  Previous Malbecs I have had have tended to come across as simple “baby Bordeaux” (which is not necessarily bad, just not my normal preference in wine).  This wine has been surprising in its dramatic aromatic qualities, the depth of its fruit, its balance and complexity, and its elegance.  Rather than being reminiscent of other wines I have had, this wine stands on its own.  I will have to start paying more attention to Argentinian Malbec from now on.  Very good to excellent value.

2005 A&M Quenard Vin de Savoie - Chignin

Consumption Date: 1/17/2012

Notes: Deep golden yellow color.  Moderate aroma with wet chalk and floral notes with a hint of sherry and butterscotch.  Light to medium bodied with mild floral and fruit notes (apples and, perhaps, pear with mild white grape), a chalky (champagne like) minerality, and a distinct sherry-like oxidized note.  Moderate finish with more notes of minerals, flowers, and fruit with a hint of oxidation.

This wine is not what I was expecting.  My previous experience with Savoie wines has been of light, crisp, refreshing wines, but this wine is a bit more serious with deeper aromas and more complexity.  I am enjoying the complexity, but am finding the oxidative qualities to be a bit surprising.  They are very much reminiscent of the Savagnin I had several years ago.  I am wondering if this characteristic was intentional or is simply the result of my having held the wine for too long.  I will certainly aim to try a more recent vintage of this wine at a younger age.  Overall, an enjoyable wine.  A Kermit Lynch selection.  Good to very good value.

2009 Epoch Estate Wines Zinfandel ‘Paderewski Vineyard’ Paso Robles

Source: La Costa


Consumption Date: 1/11/2012

Notes: Elegant aroma of blackberry fruit and chocolate with a hint of dry leaves.  Very fine body with rich, ripe fruit, more chocolate, and hints of tar and dry leaves.  Moderate finish of more fruit, chocolate, and a bit more tar.  Mild to moderate tannin.

This wine has been a bit of a surprise.  I chose it while on vacation, at the recommendation of the clerk in a wine store in Carlsbad, California, with some reservations (as it was the most expensive Zinfandel in the store), but in the interest of trying a California Zin I was unlikely to find on the East Coast.  Luckily, it has turned out to be a very well made and enjoyable wine.  It is surprisingly elegant, with a luxurious, velvety mouthfeel, while containing many of the Zinfandel flavors I enjoy.  As with the most recent Zin I consumed, it has distinctive chocolate notes, but with little briary undergrowth flavors.  I am wondering if this is a consequence of consuming this wine a temperature that is a significantly higher (at ~72°F) than that at which I normally drink Zinfandel.  The only knock I have on this wine is that it lacks somewhat in complexity.  Average to decent value.

2007 Tofanelli Family Vineyards Zinfandel (Napa Valley)

Source: La Costa


Consumption Date: 1/9/2012

Notes: Mild aroma of dry, sun-baked earth with some rich, ripe blackberry and a mild hint of dry leaves.  Mild, dry woody notes evolves rapidly into intense, ripe, almost jammy blackberry with chocolate overtones, framed with a subtle dry spiciness and leafiness.  Finishes with more spicy, herbaceousness, chocolate, and dry leaves, with an especially long ripe fruit note.  Mild to moderate tannin.

This wine is interesting to me as it has a flavor profile that is probably considered quintessential California Zinfandel, yet is a bit different from the typical Zin profile that I am accustomed to.  This wine emphasizes fruit with only subtle hints of typical Zin leafiness, spiciness, and other secondary flavors (e.g., chocolate) which are not always present in Zins (but are proving to be quite enjoyable) and without what I consider to be a characteristic brambly flavor.  However, this wine has surprising complexity and also has a surprisingly long fruity finish.  In addition, while being dramatically fruity, it also presents an unexpected silkiness and elegance.  Good value.

1995 Charles Heidsieck 'Blanc des Millenaires Blanc de Blancs Brut'

Consumption Date: 12/31/2011

Notes: Mild aromas of yeast bread and wet chalk with a hint of flowers.  Rich, creamy body with a solid core of mellow, ripe fruit (apples with a hint of white grape muskiness) with a fine chalky minerality and a nice yeasty/bready component.  Finish long with more fruit and a more pronounced chalky minerality.

This is another fine Champagne and another interesting variation on what this region can produce.  As an older vintage wine, the fruitiness is more mellow and subdued than the Roger Coulon Champagne I most recently opened.  As an all Chardonnay Champagne, it is a bit more austere than the other Champagnes I have drunk recently, although the yeasty quality works well to balance this.  It is perhaps not as complex as I would have expected, but it is still quite enjoyable.  Decent value.

Welcome to Shark's Cellar

My intent for this blog is to share the notes I periodically take as I taste the wines in my cellar.  My thought is that since I am keeping notes for my own purposes anyway, I would make them available to whoever may be interested in them via this blog.  When it comes to tasting, I am strictly an amateur.  My notes follow a standard format that includes: basic details about the wine, a brief tasting note, and a broader reaction to the wine.  Although I philosophically have issues with tasting notes in general (i.e., what does it really mean to say one thing tastes like another?) and I generally have difficulty articulating everything I taste in a wine, I record the tasting note so that I have some frame of reference for remembering and comparing the wines I taste.  Personally, I think the broader reaction note is more useful in identifying the impact the wine has had on me and how it relates to my growing experience of the breadth and depth that the world of wine has to offer.

In the interest of integrity, I will share a few details about my interests in wine, but prefer to keep my anonymity intact (although a few of you may know who I am).  I have been seriously drinking wine for about six years now, although I only manage about 30-40 bottles a year.  My taste in reds runs to Burgundy, Zinfandel, and Gran Reserva Riojas.  I enjoy a broad range of white wines, but especially German Rieslings (Auslesen) wines.  I also enjoy Champagne and, occasionally, port.  Of course I prefer to drink the finest wines available, but in the interests of practicality, my notes tend to focus on the relative value of the wines I drink.

I do not intend for this blog to serve as a source of recommendations (although you may find it useful, if you share my tastes).  I may occasionally endorse importers or merchants, but this is strictly based on my experience with them and not any financial compensation.  I do not intend to seek sponsorship for this blog and will disclose any relationship that may be perceived to influence my notes.

I hope you enjoy my ramblings.  Please feel free to comment.

Shark